The Quest for the Perfect Bathing Suit

It can be surprisingly difficult to find a decent gent's bathing suit. Let's examine some contenders.

Not a look to emulate.

Board shorts have been the rage seemingly forever, yet they don't really fit the bill. Don't get me wrong: Board shorts are great for working-out and surfing, but they aren't particularly good for swimming. They are far too loose and baggy for even a short swim. And their image as the swim suit of choice for frat boys on vacation doesn't speak in their favor.

The traditional American option of a volley-style short with elastic waistband and built-in liner doesn't work either. For one, no one really looks good wearing something with an elastic waistband. Also, this type of swimwear has an annoying tendency to balloon in the water in a very unflattering way.

Competition briefs (erroneously called Speedos by many) are best for just that: competition.

Jammers look too much like the bike shorts popular in the '80s.

So where does that leave us?

There are some companies making men's swimwear in a more traditional vein, such as Parke and Ronen or Baron Wells. The Baron Wells sea pant is quite nice looking, but is rather pricey.

Another option is the square cut or "budgie smuggler" style famously worn by Daniel Craig in Casino Royale. These are perhaps the most classic of all men's swimwear styles, but one must have the right physique to pull it off. Speedo makes some very nice square cuts, especially the ones made for the European market. If you are in good enough shape, these are a great choice, and are perfect for actual swimming.

My choice? For some time I was a big fan of J. Crew's short, vintage-style board shorts. They are nothing like the oversized, overlong board shorts one finds in a surf shop. The fit is nicely snug without being tight, there is no unsightly elastic, and the leg length is good. I can go on a nice ocean swim without feeling unnecessary drag, and walk along the beach without feeling indecent. All in all, a good men's swimsuit with a classic, traditional appeal.


These were my go-to shorts until I went to a thrift store and found a couple of pairs of Birdwell Beach Britches 301s in my size. For the unaware, Birdwells are old-fashioned board shorts. They are to swimwear what Levis 501s are to jeans or Brooks Brothers shirts are to dress shirts, and have been written about in Men's Journal, Uncrate, and the New York Times. I particularly like Uncrate's description of the Birdwell 301s having "simple styling that would look totally natural next to 007's 1964 Aston Martin."

Normally 301s are at least $60 each. I picked up two pair-—one black, one sort of peach colored-—for under $6. Very comfortable; much shorter than today's trendy board shorts, and more fitted, too. They dry incredibly fast. Another plus: Not only are Birdwells known for durability, they are still made in the USA.

The Classic Harrington Jacket

One of the many great things about the Daniel Craig-era James Bond films is the return of 007 as a style icon. Consider, for example, the resurgence of interest in the classic Harrington-style jacket in the wake of Craig's use of one in Quantum of Solace.

Of course, the Harrington jacket has been around for decades. The original G9 Harrington was and is made by the U.K. firm Baracuta. The G9 was a favorite of the ultracool Steve McQueen.

The G9 doesn't come cheap. It's retails for a bit over $250. That's a bargain compared to the jacket used by Craig. Designed by Tom Ford, it runs at least four times as much, a nice sum for a casual cotton jacket.


For the rest of us, the renewed interest in the Harrington has led to more affordable options, such as the one at left by Land's End Canvas, or the one at right by Old Navy. (Both are out of stock right now, but will  probably return in fall.)

Neither have anything near the panache of the famous Baracuta, but they are a touch more attainable!

I own three different Harringtons. All of them are black. One is all cotton, one is nylon (not traditional, but perfect for rainy days) and one is a cotton/nylon blend. Two were purchased from thrift stores, one from a Banana Republic outlet. My favorite is one of the thrift store finds: A Sears & Roebuck (really!) jacket that is very similar to a classic Baracuta and fits like a dream.

In the future I might post some photos of my collection.

John Rain's Watch

For my money, Barry Eisler's books about half-American/half-Japanese assassin John Rain are some best thrillers since the glory days of Ian Fleming and Adam Hall. I can't help but be enthralled by the adventures of this jazz-loving, Scotch-drinking, neck-breaking killer.

Like Fleming before him, Eisler doesn't shy away from mentioning name-brands in his novels. Some critics deride this sort of thing as gimmicky. I disagree. I think it just roots the series in the real world, and gives me a better connection to the character. I'd prefer to know that Rain drinks Laphroaig and listens to Bill Evans than merely be told he drinks single-malts and listens to jazz.

In the third book of the series, Rain Storm, we learn what type of watch John Rain normally wears: a Traser P5900. As something of a watch enthusiast, this was a key revelation. It was also not an arbitrary decision on Barry Eisler's part. In the book's acknowledgements, he specifically thanks a bunch of real-life operators for inspiring him to issue Rain a Traser wristwatch.

The P5900 is an interesting choice of watch for an international assassin or would-be international man of intrigue. It's black, lightweight, and rather nondescript. The bright lume means it should be readable even in the darkest environments. And it isn't too expensive, so one wouldn't shed tears if it was lost or damaged during a mission. Really, it rather strikes me as the Glock of analog watches.

Would I ever buy one? That's a tough question. It's a nice watch for all the reasons I mentioned above, thought a bit smaller than I'm used to. Also, I am a bit of an automatic purist, and the P5900 is a quartz watch. For the money, I would be tempted to just get an Seiko 5 auto, which are probably the best budget watches on the planet. Still, I don't deny being tempted by the Traser. It would feed into my John Rain fantasies, and whenever I checked the time I would no doubt be tempted to sip some Laphroaig, listen to a bit of Bill Evans, and go practice Jiu-Jitsu.

Rolex and "I Spy"

My all-time favorite American TV spy show is by far "I Spy." It had great locations, believable espionage stories, and—most important of all—the chemistry and wit of stars Bill Cosby and the late Robert Culp. And one minor bonus: Cosby and Culp wore really cool Rolex Pepsi GMTs.

The enthusiasts over at watchsrolex.com wrote a nice piece in memory of Robert Culp, who passed away in 2010. You can read it here.

The Seiko on My Wrist

While I fully respect the beauty and craftsmanship of fine Swiss brands such as Rolex and Omega, I must admit to having a real love of Seikos, especially the automatic divers. They are well-made, with fantastic lumes that seem to glow forever.

My first Seiko was a 009 Pepsi given to me by my step-father. It was also my first "real" (i.e. automatic) watch after years of quartz Casios.

A few years ago I purchased a Seiko Black Monster, which has barely left my wrist since. 

I love this watch. It's built like a tank, and as you can tell from the photo, the lume is superb and the face is very readable. The bezel rotates smoothly and easily, which is something I can't say for some Omega Seamasters I've handled. 

While Seiko may not have the quite the panache of some of the Swiss makes, it's good enough for me, and for Sir Roger Moore in his non-Bond guise of Rufus Excalibur ffolkes.